Sitka Wildlife

 

It was a sunny day in Sitka when we arrived, the Nieuw Amsterdam being just one of 3 cruise ships in port at the same time.  We and a second ship were docked, while the third and smallest ship was tendering passengers ashore.  We had booked an excursion that left from the downtown Sitka museum and visitor Center area so Liz and I went early using the shuttle bus and began to walk around the town of Sitka. Fishing boats abound around Sitka and as we walked along a shore-side trail we kept hearing huge splashes.  We looked to see fisherman catching fish and fish leaping out of the water near them. 

We visited the science center at the one end of the trail and then came back to wait for excursion. The excursion was on a two deck boat with the lower deck enclosed which  allowed us to be warmly inside while approaching rafts of Sea otters floating in the kelp.  We heard how the mother otter wraps her baby in bull kelp which anchors to the sea bottom to keep the baby in place while she forages for food.  Their dense fur keeps them warm as they do not have blubber.  We also saw some small groups of male otters. Then, as we searched for whales,  out of nowhere came a male orca with its distinct tall triangular fin.  We saw him several times over about 30 minutes—it seemed as if he was almost playing with our boat. 

 We began to chase multiple whale spouts and for another 30 minutes or so watched humpbacks spouting, backs arching thru the water, and tail flips as they dove again.  

Valdez and Lowe River

We had a day at sea as we passed out of Anchorage through Prince William sound all the way down Cook’s Inlet and across Prince William sound and then across the Gulf of Alaska again as we made our way towards the port of Valdez.   Most people recognize the Exxon Valdez as one of the biggest oil spills in history—one that created awareness across the world and certainly across the United States of the damage that spilled oil can do to bird life and other wildlife. Here also in Valdez was where the huge earthquake of 1964 originated shortly offshore and produced a tsunami across Alaska wrecking harbor towns down as far as Crescent city and even down to Noyo. Here in Valdez we took another tour bus, this time up the Lowe river valley to its headwaters where we stopped and viewed the beautiful and retreating Worthington glacier.  Today was rainy but mostly light rain, so we could get on/off our bus to walk up to waterfalls, etc.  along the journey we six bald eagles, two on the wing and four in tree tops. We stopped at one heavily fished area where we saw tons of sea lions basking beside a side stream coming into the Lowe River along our highway, and dozen or more fishermen catching salmon.  We traveled all the way to Thompson pass and the Worthington glacier, where we walked around again before turning for the return trip back.  Our ship sails away early evening toward our next port, Sitka.

 Bridal Veil Falls

Sea lions on the Lowe River

Sailing into Valdez

Lovely towel art in stateroom

Worthington Glacier at Thompson Pass

Kodiak and Anchorage

 

After several days at sea passing through the inland passage and up through the gulf of Alaska we will be reaching Kodiak island.we have a lovely view from our cabin on the sixth deck, 6054.  The passage has been smooth barely rocking a little and we reach Kodiak on a day where there is no rain. Because no ships have come in for several years,  and because the only way in and off the island is via sea and air, there were no tour buses available for our tours and we had to use school buses for both shuttling people into town as well as taking them on tours. The problem with using the school buses was that school is in session and so our shuttles and tours had to be flexible to accommodate the school drivers needs of getting back to pick the school children up at 2 o’clock, so all tours had to end by about 1:30 and everybody who was in town on the shuttle had to wait in town until the school buses had dropped off the children for the day and could resume their work for the Holland America cruise lines, around 4. But it all worked out in the end and we had a delightful person who was a long time resident of Kodiak who told us about her life and times and the times around Kodiak as we went up out of town  a ways and to a World War II monument and state park, then back down to a few museums in the heart of Kodiak which were absolutely wonderful.

The next day we had traveled as far as Anchorage and here is the largest city in Alaska with over 300,000 people.  At this port,  we had regular tour buses albeit small ones for which took us up the wonderful wonderful Turnagain arm (named by explorer Captain Cook who was seeking the northwest passage but never found it—here he went up this broad fjord-like inlet and then ordered his crew to Turn Again, thus the inlet ‘s name).  Along our route we saw breathtaking fall colors. Eagles, the back of a beluga whale which I’m pretty sure I did see, as we traveled all the way up to a spectacular glaciated area.  There we saw the tip of the glacier and wonderful blue ice melt streams with spawning salmon — it was a lovely trip and allowed us to see the inland area of this portion of Alaska, which is one humongous state.

Spawned out salmon

Wood bison-a recovering species once thought extinct

Glacier with blue color from the fine silt

Different sizes of black bear, brown bear (grizzly) and polar bear.

Watching the spawning salmon

Getting pictures of wildlife

ArriveCAN, Vancouver Airport, Cruise Terminal and Chaos

 

The trip began smoothly. We had prepared with ArriveCan filling out all the required documentation in that application, and we had taken our Covid test on the Thursday before our Sunday boarding plus we had filled out everything on Air Canada for boarding, and lastly completed all of the Holland America Navigator that we could. 

The shuttle ride to the airport was uneventful — thank you Laura for taking us so early to catch it— and the checkin at Air Canada was swift and easy—luggage tagged and sent off and in 30 seconds we were headed toward our Gate.  The plane ride was uneventful if barebones with only one drink service (water or any of three juices) for the entire 2.5 hours and not a free cookie, peanut, or snack to be found. 

Eventful is the watchword after the plane sat down in Canada.  It is a huge airport in Vancouver and we walked our elderly tired feet off to collect our luggage and find out how to exit the airport. We were tired, being 75 and 76.  The last thing we thought of was to check emails to see if we were the unlucky random person selected for a Covid test.  But Lizzie was.  

She didn’t see the email until she was in the hotel room after a $40 taxi ride to our hotel.  Taxis in Vancouver charge by increments of both distance AND time.  So, in rush hour stopping at red lights everywhere, you watch the meter tick up ever 9.92 seconds! And you are not moving. The taxi tariff sign is pictured above.

We settled into our room at the Holiday Inn on Broadway (and yes, both elevators were working this year).  It was smoky in Vancouver from Frasier River canyon fires. Lizzie and I were so glad to get settled and begin to relax.  So, Liz checked her email….

Despite having a negative Covid PCR test in the past 72 hours, this 76-year old grandmother had been randomly selected to have another test by ArriveCan’s  App, and the “free” testing location was back past the airport in Richmond…another likely $40 and two hours round trip  away.  We couldn’t face it, especially since we would be in Canada less than 24 hours as we boarded the cruise ship at 10:00 the next morning.   

However, as early risers we woke the next morning and decided we had better comply as Canada kept sending Liz reminders to go test or face penalties. So, once again we took a $35 taxi ride to the “free” test location in Richmond.  After 30 minutes Liz had completed the test collection and we were again in a taxi for another $35 ride to the Cruise ship embarkation center.  Thank you Mr. Trudeau for the warm welcome to your country. 

From there it should have been better as we were a priority ship boarding party, but it continued to go downhill. Three large cruise ships had arrived in port Sunday morning and all three were disembarking thousands of passengers trying to leave the facility just as thousands more were arriving to embark on those same three ships. We stood in an unmoving line for 45 minutes because they needed to clear the outbound passengers before the incoming passengers could begin to be processed.  Then we began to

move, snaking through a queue to show our passport and negative Covid test results (from our Thursday planned testing) for our boarding pass, then snaking through a much larger queue to show passport and boarding pass for our carry on and passenger security screens, then into another queue for passing thru US customs as our first port of call was Kodiak AK, finally hustled to another crammed seating area to wait for nearly 90 minutes until we could actually board.  Everyone began to have frayed tempers as they began the final queue to lead to the boarding ramp and show passport and boarding pass one last time as we entered the last security checkpoint onboard ship before taking the elevators to our deck and stateroom.  We had made it.  

Once onboard we awaited the arrival of our luggage, unpacked, and went up to the Lido deck to await sail away.  There we watched the takeoff and landings of several sea planes (me sipping a well deserved margarita) before finally hearing the engines start, then slowly departing Vancouver as we sailed away under the famed Lion’s Gate bridge.

Delta Byways, Foothills and Gold Country

This little marsh wren (photo by Laura) was singing his heart out at our first stop along the delta waterways.   Waterfowl swam in the Delta waters, with Mt Diablo in the background.

This blog update will be postppned until later this week as the wifi here in Stockton is abysmal at this park.  Laura has wonderful photos I want to share, but I will wait and edit this. 

On Saturday, Laura joined Liz and I for two days of sightseeing.  On Day 1 we headedalong the delta backroads and complex waterways iof the islands eastb of Rio Vista.

At Indian Grinding Rock Historical State Park, this little gopher was busily pushing freshly dog soil up and out of his/her den (photo courtesy of Laura Warner).   The deep holes in the native rock have been dug over the eons, forming the largest community grinding rock in North America. 

More Wildlife photos from Laura for that day:

Central Valley Adventure

 On Wednesday, May 11th, we set out for Lodi, planning to camp at the Flag City RV Park.  We checked into S39, which is at the southwest area of the park, and observed that much had changed since our last visit three years ago in 2019.  Solar panels adorn building rooftops, and are ground-placed all around the large dog play area.  Trees have grown to provide good shade to the RV spaces.  Many large, lovely RVs appear to be long-tern renters (about $900/month) as they have planters with flowers and tomato plants, etc. Our little Apex Nano is the smalles RV here--or was until a small Rpod came in Thursday.  The cell service is only 2 bars and the wifi is very slow so I purchased an additional wifi plan to allow my meetings to happen, as I had one each afternoon for the next three days.

On Thursday, we visited Bill Jones who generously let us pick some lemons, grapefruit and cherries after we visited with him and gazillions of his humingbirds.  We later had a lovely lunch of crackers and cheese at Micke Grove Park, picnicking under the oaks near the Zoo.  Afterwards, we explored the lovely and tranquil Japanese Garden there (see above and below).

We explored the UOP campus, as it had been about fifty years since Liz and I last walked those pathways.  Burns Tower now hosts a visitors center, and the students working there were very helpful and gave us a map showing the campus buildings that exist today--far more and in different places than existed in the 1960s. 

The campus was clearly setting up for graduation ceremonies with white and black folding chairs, ribbons, flowers, banners, etc.  An air of excitement seemed to permeate the grounds.  We walked to toward what had been the library--it is gone, but we explored the interior of the NEW library. A sweet student library staffer showed us around the marvelous new library, explaining to us about the tech center with the 3-D printer and more, the media room showcasing student collaborative videos and movies, event areas, and study rooms, etc.  I didn't see any books, so finally I asked if there were any books, and she got really excited and said the old books were her favorite area--so down into the basement we descended where movable stacks could be ratcheted apart with the twirl of a hatch handle for floating, moveable aisleways.  Actual reference books were still housed on shelving unit after shelving unit.   

Later we decided to dine out, and had a great Mexican dinner in Lodi at El Maguey, which we recommend.  It is small but has a diverse menu, and the food was excellent.

Today, Friday the 13th, we planned to explore the foothills, so drove east on highway 12 to connect up with Highway 49.  The drive through the small foothill towns is always nice, and also showed us the extent of the drought impact as we passed over the New Melones reservoir.

I have never seen the reservoir this low.

We drove on and decided to make a stop at Columbia, where we could have our picnic lunch of chicken sandwiches and take a little time to explore the historical mining town. 

We drove home, diverting around a full Tullock Reservoir to the new Copperopolis Town Center, and stopped for ice cream--it's warm today, with a high of 84 expected.  Tomorrow is supposed to be around 94.  Laura is joining us tomorrow, and we plan to re-explore the delta islands.

 

R and R around Kauai

 

I didn’t take this picture, but we have been watching a population of up to 5 anoles at one time near our river pool. Two Brown anole males were bobbing heads and flashing their orange dewlap yesterday.  One did pushups, and others ran adjacent ones off their rocks.   Sometimes we see only three, but they are always out on the rocks in the same place.  Anoles are a type of fence-lizard sized iguana.  Little Hawaiian doves, cattle egrets, and a long-legged shore bird are always around the river pool with its draping tropical greenery and beautiful flowers.

We are having a lazy last few days— going on small hikes near Kapa’a and just lazing about in the river pool and hot tubs. On one of the beach trails, we saw whales again in close but none were leaping, only occasional backs revealed. 

Today we will enjoy the resort again, then organize and finally pack as we have to leave early tomorrow. 

Allerton and Resort Life

We enjoyed the river pools and being lazy around the resort after visiting Waimea--generally we are exploring one day and lazing around this lovely resort on alternative days.  The next trip is to Allerton, one of five National Tropical Botanical Gardens (one is in Florida, and the rest are in Hawaii).  We have been to several before, but Allerton is always a lovely place to visit, so we scheduled a morning excursion that involves about a three hour walk through garden spaces designed to surprise.  Our docent guide, Dr. Bob (a retired dentist), was delightfully informative about the history of Allerton and impact of native and invasive species, destruction of tropical forests, and more.  The original Jurassic Park movie had several sequences filmed in Allerton, including the huge tree roots of the banyan:

We tasted pomolo fruit--tree ripened and deliciuous, and wandered around statuary, water features, interesting fruits, golden bamboo, and gorgeous blooms which abound:

Pomelo is the ancestor of the grapefruit, but was much sweeter.  

We lunched in Poipu at an interesting sports club (as road closures and detours seemed everywhere that day--we took the first restaurant we could find after our morning at Allerton) with a humorous young man as our waitor, and enjoyed our pulled pork sandwiches and burgers.  That evening, Lizzie and I used the river pool after dark, enjoying the lighted ambiance which gave it a totally different feel.

We again stayed around the resort on Friday, enjoying the beach and pools.  Tidepools adjacent to the resort were abundant with fish, and I identified seven different types swimming near me.

Friday evening we dined at the Resort's Oasis by the Sea restaurant, as Elaine had asked Helen to buy us dinner with Elaine's complements.  It's an open air restauant right on the beach and the view was lovely through sunset.  I started with a mai tai cocktail, then had the seared ahi, along with a lovely salad, pupus (wontons) and a great chocolate mousse dessert.  The ahi was the best I've ever had.

We finished up the evening with another documentary by Will Smith on his earth adventures--so interesting!

Hanalei, Lydgate, and Waimea Canyon

  At Hanalei, we observed changes from our last visit--the new pier extending out into the bay (picture above and below taken from pier), changed road conditions, and of course Covid19 impacts.

The valley to Hanalei was as lovely as ever, but the pot-hole roads were more severe and driving was dedicated to keeping the car tires out of holes.  We lunched in Hanalei, and the lunch was delicious and the waiter helpful and friendly.  Most people were courteous at the bridges, but every now and then a string of ten cars went over past the signs that said 5-7 cars at a time was common courtesy.  Puff must have been asleep, because we saw no magic dragons this trip...

The next day we stayed at our lovely resort, as Lizzie and I would use the pools multiple times during the day: we would walk the length of the river pools at least three times, basking in the sun in a quiet pool between each trek, and finish up in the hot tub.  Helen generally walks around the land area, but hasn't been in the pool as much as Liz and I.

The next day (Monday) was going to be a beach day, and Helen decided to stay at the condo.  Liz and I went to Lydgate, but the surf was really high.  We first took the paved walk to the Golf Course, and as we walked we passed some feral cats which people were feeding (judging by water and food bowls tucked under the pathway hedges).   One Tom Cat clearly had decided that chickens were not on its dinner plate, and the rooster clearly also had decided that peaceful co-existence was a good plan, as shown on the image below:

Kauai chickens and little chicks are everywhere, as we remembered. At another location on the coastal path, we stopped and watched whales playing--breaching and splashing.  By the time I managed to get my camera ready and snap a picture, all I could catch was a spout, but the whales were in quite close to shore. 

I got ready to snorkel at Lydgate, but the current was so strong that day, even in the protected lagoon (see image below), that my balance in the water was topsy-turvey so I followed Liz' pattern and just sat partially submerged on rocks--we didn't see a single fish, and according to our guidebook, that has been the case since the county dredged the pool.  So sad because we used to see lots of tropical fish at Lydgate.

We returned to the resort and enjoyed the calm river pools instead, heading later over to the Lemongrass Restaurant for another lovely meal and my first MaiTai of the the trip.  Helen had a virgin cocktail, which was also very pretty.

The next day, Tuesday, we drove south to the Waimea Canyon Park--a long drive but such a lovely park, with spectacular canyon views--helicopters are moving up and down the canyon, bird-like specks in the distance and flying below the lookout points.  It is easy to see why this section of Kauai is roadless--the terrain is deeply rugged.

We lunched late in Hanapepe, and relaxed that evening at our resort.